What to see and do in Osaka beyond the blossoms

It says a lot about Osaka that one of its main tourist attractions when the city’s cherry blossoms aren’t in bloom is a giant billboard of a running man. But while it might suffer in comparison to the excitement and out-there weirdness of Tokyo – where doesn’t? – it’s unfair to dismiss Japan’s second biggest city as a bore. And if you’re headed there this spring, you’ll find there’s lots to enjoy once you’re done sniffing and snapping the sakura.

What to do

You mean aside from seeing the running man sign, aka the Glico billboard? It’s a bizarre source of pride admittedly, but the Glico billboard – originally erected in 1935 – actually serves as a decent geographical anchor-point for you to get your bearings in the city.

For slightly more exciting moving images, you can head to Japan’s Universal Studios (2 Chome-1-33 Sakurajima, Konohana; usj.co.jp), or for lower-octane entertainment, you can take a trip to the Instant Ramen Museum (8-25 Masumi-cho, Ikeda-shi), which as the name suggests tracks the history of the pot noodle.

If Osaka isn’t exactly over-flowing with daytime activities, the city’s nightlife has plenty to offer. Tiny whisky and cocktail spot Bar K (1 Chome-3-3 Sonezakishinchi, Kita-ku; 06 6343 1167) is one for the serious drinker, while the more relaxed Space Station (2 Chome-13-3 Nishishinsaibashi, Chuo Ward; 80 4151 6336) serves reasonably priced drinks with a side of retro games consoles in the buzzing central area of Dotonbori.

Much of this buzz is courtesy of the main pedestrianised stretch of Dotonbori Street, stacked with tourist-luring snack spots with giant signs advertising their wares – a huge mechanical octopus with moving tentacles serves as a marker for classic takoyaki, for example. The massive imitation foodstuffs are one of many signifiers that eating is a big deal in Osaka, and one of the main things to do here is fill your stomach.

Where to eat

In short: everywhere. Even the bad restaurants in Osaka are good; in a country that takes its eating very seriously, Osaka is renowned as a foodie favourite. It’s a well-trotted out line that the city’s maxim of kuidaore means ‘eat yourself into ruin’, and while there are so many Michelin stars here that they’re almost unremarkable, away from the tyred tips there are some bargainous street snacks and deliciously fresh seafood to be had.

A good place to start is the central Kuromon Market (2 Chome-4-1 Nipponbashi, Chuo-ku Ward; pictured above), which is akin to a pick-and-mix of assorted seafood, marbled beef cuts and pickled vegetables. It’s a little touristy, but the quality of the produce makes it a worthwhile visit, and you can happily put together your own lunch by wandering from tempura stand to yakitori grill to fresh uni stall.

The original branch of Fukutaro (3-17 Sennichimae 2 Chome, Chuo- ku; 06 6634 2951) is the place to go for the classic Osakan dish of okonomiyaki. Referred to on the menu as a ‘Japanese pizza’, but really more of a savoury pancake adorned with ground meat or sh, Fukutaro’s okonomiyaki are cooked on hot plates right in front of you at the central bar-like counter.