Pudong covers a vast area, but thankfully so
does the Shanghai metro, and when considering
day trips out of the city, you needn’t always look
to the gaotie. In fact, before you even reach the
end of Line 16, you’ll find Xinchang Ancient Town,
a vibrant tangle of alleys, bridges and teahouses
twirling around the town’s four rivers.
Although we may not be the first to discover
this charming water town – you may recognise
the backdrop from scenes in Ang Lee’s film Lust,
Caution – we felt a world away from the hordes of
tourists that often overrun the likes of Zhujiajiao
and Zhouzhuang.
The few visitors who do venture here enter the
water town via Hongxi Lu. From here, you can
stroll the interlacing lanes, carved stone-arch
bridges and old wooden architecture of around
100 conserved courtyard-style houses from the
Ming and Qing dynasties that provide glimpses
of a time when Pudong was merely a string of
individual villages.
If you’re peckish, sample offerings from street
vendors, touting the likes of fried tofu, sticky
red bean cakes, and huge baskets of steaming
shaomai. Those with tired legs might prefer a
stop at 14 Hongxi Lu, a quaint little store run
by an affable Dongbei lady, for a plate of freshboiled
dumplings and a seat.
In the centre of the town, you’ll find the No.
1 Teahouse (look out for pictures of Lust,
Caution in the window). A plaque outside this
iconic spot states that the shop, originally
built as a bungalow, dates back to the years of
Emperor Tongzhi in the Qing dynasty, and was
rebuilt during the reign of Emperor Xuantong. Now beautifully renovated, it’s a peaceful and pleasant place to recharge over a pot of tea.
Towards the end of June, Xinchang is brimming with beautifully fresh and ripe peaches. In the meantime, from early April and throughout most
of May, the town hosts a Peach Blossom Festival
(that runs from 9am-4pm at 30RMB per ticket –
exact dates not yet confirmed).
Tourism is obviously doing good things for this
area, but it doesn’t yet feel too commercialised
(except for perhaps one store selling crêpes, and
the growing number of coffee shops popping up
around town). If you go during the week, you’ll
experience quieter streets while participating in
the daily life of Xinchang’s locals. Enjoy it while
you can.
How to get there Take Line 16 to Xinchang (a pleasant
45-minute, mostly above ground metro ride from
Century Avenue via Longyang Lu). Heading out
of the second exit, grab a cab (a five-minute ride)
or jump on the bus that goes to Xinchang Ancient
Town for 1RMB (have the town’s name in Chinese
characters handy and check with the bus
conductor if you’re unsure). Hop off after three
stops (again, the conductor can help you here),
cross the road and before arriving at the bridge,
head through the stone gate and down Hongxi Lu.
