Peace and quiet might not be two things that
you’d automatically associate with Hangzhou,
a city so famed for its beautiful lake that it is
now virtually indistinguishable from a public
swimming pool during the school holidays.
If you’re looking to dodge the tourists, while
remaining close to the area’s most iconic
sightseeing spots, then we suggest you check
into Amanfayun, a luxury rural retreat hidden in a
wild valley not far from the famous West Lake.
The resort – comprised of 47 stone courtyard
dwellings linked by a narrow pathway – is
named for the Tang dynasty village which once
inhabited the site. When we visited, spring was
only just blinking awake, but the place was still
impossibly verdant thanks to its surrounding
bamboo groves, forests, and tea plantations
(guests can also organise seasonal tea-picking
expeditions).
Meanwhile, the seven surrounding
monasteries lend the property an even greater
sense of serenity, with monks periodically gliding
down the Fayun path in billowing orange robes
providing licks of vivid colour against the pastoral
backdrop. Amanfayun guests can gain access
to the temples – the most famous of which is
Lingyin Temple, regarded as one of the ten most
important in China – by presenting their room
keys at the gates.
The rooms themselves are stunning, housed
inside century-old structures that have been
reconstructed using traditional methods, with
roofs of clay tile, walls of brick, earth and light
timbers, and stone floors. They’ve been given
a sophisticated edge thanks to restrained
interiors of open-grain elm wood furniture, dark
wood Chinese lattice screens to separate the
living spaces, fine art calligraphy pieces, and
deliciously cosy underfloor heating.
When we checked into our room, we balked at
the lack of a bathtub – but even better, it turns out
you can book a complimentary private room in
the Fayun Spa’s Bath House, containing your very
own circular wooden soaking tub and steam room
(drinking a glass of wine in here is living life to the
max). Over at Fayun Place, snacks and tea are
served, and local activities can be participated
in, such as knot workshops; there are also five
restaurants on-site, including the excellent,
recently revamped Steam House, the Temple
Vegetarian Restaurant, and the Japanese-style
Hangzhou House.
A stay here may not be cheap (see room prices
below), but you certainly get what you pay for. A
truly unique hotel offering its guests a rugged,
but nevertheless five-star, form of escapism.
How to get there One of the best things about this
patch of eden is its accessibility – just an hour’s
train journey to Hangzhou (gaoties run frequently
from Hongqiao Railway Station and cost 73RMB
for a single journey) and a 20-minute cab ride.
Village rooms at Amanfayun start at 6,555RMB, and can
be booked by calling 0571 8732
9999 or visiting their website.
